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Fort Greely/ Big Delta

1948 to Early 1990's

Name of Ski Area: Fire Tower Ski Hill, Tower Hill, Fort Greely Biathlon Trails, Sand Lewis Hill Jump
Location: Delta Junction, to the south on Fort Greely (formerly called Big Delta)
Type of Area: Ski Hill, Ski Trails (Biathlon), Ski Jump
Dates of Operation: 1948 to Early 1990s
Who Built It?: U.S. Army
Base/ Vertical Drop:

Vertical: ~100 feet

Lifts: 2 Rope Tows
Facilities: U.S. Army base, 20 meter ski jump, 10 miles of cross country ski trails
History: From a 13 February 2005 article in the Anchorage Daily News about Hank Dube entitled "Military Mountaineer" by Judy Ferguson of Big Delta:

"Because Big Delta [Alaska] offered more of a training ground than Colorado - glaciers, tundra, arctic rivers, extreme temperatures - Big Delta's Allen Army Air Field, the forerunner of Fort Greely, in 1948, became the official Army Arctic Indoctrination School Detachment, the forerunner of the Northern Warfare Training Center."

"Newly drafted Finnish and Swedish officers taught recruits cross-country but not downhill skiing.  When Peter Gabriel arrived in 1950 as the training administrator for skiing and technical adviser, he told them, "If you go uphill, you have to go downhill also."  Big Delta's Cold Weather and Mountain School became only the second lab the Army had for testing men, clothing, skis, boots and bindings for military arctic readiness."

"When military skiing was pioneered in the late 1940s and '50s, Fort Greely's training center was the only show in town for the world's arctic-trained troops."

 

 

A call to Hank Dube unveiled information about the lost ski sites at Fort Greely.  Hank came to Fort Greely 1957, stayed until 1959, left and returned for good in 1967.  Hank mentioned that in the 1950s there was a 20 meter ski jump on Sand Lewis Hill just north of Fort Greely's main entrance.  The ski hill, called Firetower Hill, was a small practice hill.  It was located to the SE of the Allen Airfield runway, behind the hanger and to the west of Jarvis Creek.  The vertical of this hill was about 100 feet.  It was a good hill to teach soldiers how to ski, a "starter hill".  Once soldiers got the feel for their skis they would "graduate" to the Gunnysack Hill ski area to the south near the Black Rapids Glacier.

The first rope tow was put in operation on this hill in 1967.  This initial rope tow is still at this ski hill site (as of 2005).  In the 1980's Hank built another rope tow on this hill - so there were rope tows up each side of the hill.  Soldiers could ride up one side, ski down the other, turn around and then do the reverse trip up and down.

Hank also mentioned that there were about 10 miles of cross country ski trails on base at Fort Greely.

South of Fort Greely, in the Black Rapids Glacier area, the Northern Warfare Training Center (NWTC) now has its operations base.  The NWTC is based out of the U.S. Army's Fort Wainwright just south of Fairbanks.  The NWTC currently uses Gunnysack Hill for their training operations.  For more information on the NWTC, click here.

Sources of Information:

Hank Dube; Major Jeffrey G. Fishack, NWTC CommanderA 13 February 2005 article in the Anchorage Daily News about Hank Dube entitled "Military Mountaineer" by Judy Ferguson of Big Delta.  Also see Judy Ferguson's Outpost web site;  Thomas Mlinar; Phil Jordan; George H. Wolcott; Michael P. Wolcott; Richard Powers

Photos: Does anyone have pictures of skiing at Fort Greely (or current pictures of the vicinity) that they would like to contribute to ALSAP ?

~  PHOTOS  ~

[Left] This 1960 shot shows Hank Dube executing a Royal Christie on Firetower Hill at Fort Greey.  [Right] Hank is shown racing slalom at Gunnysack Hill in 1962.

(click on these images to expand them)

[Photo credit and copyright: Hank Dube and Judy Ferguson]

Famous military mountaineer and skiers Peter Gabriel (left - on the cover of a 1942 LIFE magazine) and Hank Dube (right - at home in 2004).  Both of these men trained soldiers to ski, and fight and survive in arctic conditions, at Fort Greely.

(click on these images to expand them)

[Photo credit and copyright: Hank Dube and Judy Ferguson]

 

 

 
 

 

 

1950s Northern Warfare Training Center Photos
Courtesy of Richard Powers, George H. Wolcott and his son Michael P. Wolcott

Training in the Alaska Range, George Wolcott bottom center.
Wolcott 2nd from right. Alaska Range near Delta Wolcott left, Richard Powers right Powers and Wolcott
Troops waxing skis   Powers and Wolcott Maneuvers near Delta
1954 Mt. McKinley rescue More winter maneuvers shots
Rope tow, George Wolcott in front Gunnysack Hill ski training (Richard Powers photo) Slalom at Gunnysack Hill, George Wolcott skiing (Richard Powers photo)
Training at Gunnysack Hill, Black Rapids Glacier in background.

 

Thomas Mlinar Photos - 1954/1955
This is a picture of Thomas skiing down Tower Hill while he was part of the Hqs and Hqs Company, TAAC (The Army Arctic Center), where he was in the signal corp.  This was before the rope tow was installed. The fire tower to the west of the ski hill.

 

1950's 100 Mile Skiing Patch

 

Phil Jordan Photos - 1954-1956
Phil skiing on Jarvis Creek in 1955 when he was 19. Summer of 1955.
Hans Schulke Bob Heinz Hans Schulke
Phil Jordan Dick Meer Jim Pastore, AIS Instructor
Operation Moosehorn   Fort Greely Dedication Day,
Aug. 6 1955
1954 AAIS Xmas Party
  Sgt. Nate Hoover, skis in background

 

 

Many members of the Ninth Infantry Division, the Manchus, trained at the Northern Warfare Training Center, south of Fort Greely, and at Fort Wainwright.  The pictures below are from the Manchus web site, www.manchu.org, with permission for use from the site webmaster.  If you click on any of these pictures you will access the manchu.org web site where there is additional information about the image.  "Keep up the Fire"
Lurz_Manchu_1963_review.jpg (27589 bytes) Lurz_Manchu_1963_theHawk.jpg (52775 bytes) Manchu_skitrooper.jpg (31186 bytes)
Turchin_Manchu_1960_50below.jpg (71157 bytes) Turchin_Manchu_1960_skipatch.jpg (66936 bytes) Turchin_Manchu_6idak.jpg (25266 bytes)
     

Here are recent (~2004) pictures of troops training on the slopes of the NWTC's Gunnysack Hill, a military ski area south of Fort Greely that is still, and has long been, in operation.

(click on these images to expand them)

[Photo credit: Northern Warfare Training Center]

 

NWTC_Gunnysack_uphill.jpg (39119 bytes) NWTC_Gunnysack_skislopes.jpg (14320 bytes)

 

Winchester ad from the April, 1944 Alaska Sportsman Magazine

~  MAPS  ~

This topo map shows where where Fort Greely is located - in south of Delta Junction, where the Alaska Highway intersects the Richardson Highway.  The location of is Firetower Hill is shown.  But the location of the biathlon trail system on Fort Greely is unknown at present.

(click on this map to expand it)

Research Correspondence 
[Major Jeffrey G. Fishack, NWTC (Northern Warfare Training Center) Commander - 04 Jan. 2005 email excerpt]

Tim,
The ski hill on Ft Greely (tow rope) and biathlon trail are the only  military ones that I know that are no longer in use.

MAJ Fish

[Hank Dube - 22 February 2004 phone conversation with Tim Kelley]

Hank came to Fort Greely 1957, stayed to 1959, left and returned for good in 1967 (still lives in Delta Junction).  Hank mentioned that in the 1950s there was a 20 meter ski jump on Sand Lewis Hill just north of Fort Greely's main entrance.  The ski hill, called Firetower Hill, was a small practice hill.  It was located to the SE of the runway, behind the hanger and to the west of Jarvis Creek.  The vertical of this hill was about 100 feet.  It was a good hill to teach soldiers how to ski, a "starter hill".  Once soldiers got the feel for their skis they would "graduate" to the Gunnysack Hill ski area to the south near the Black Rapids Glacier.  The first rope tow was put in operation on this hill in 1967.  This initial rope tow is still at this ski hill site (as of 2005).  In the 1980's Hank built another rope tow on this hill - so there were rope tows up each side of the hill.  So soldiers could ride up one side, ski down the other, turn around and then do the reverse trip up and down.

Hank also said that the cross country trails system on Fort Greely was about 10 miles of length.

[Thomas Mlinar - 25 November 2006 email]

I have this picture of me skiing down Tower Hill [see above]. I was at Big Delta from Sept 1954 to April 1956, and we used that hill quite often. There was no ski ropes at the time. This hill was East of the Fire tower, couple hundred yards. AIS (Arctic Indoctrination School) used it quite a bit for their training. It was really a neat hill, because you could climb to the top, and start down and cirlce around going up and down over little hills and wind up near the bottom of the hill again.

I was part of Hqs & Hqs company, TAAC (the army arctic center) and was in the signal corp. Our radio and teletype building, signal corp supply warehouse, was between the fire tower, and the ski hill. That's where I worked. I would see the AIS guys going to and from the hill during their training.

[Thomas Mlinar - December 2006 email excerpts]

If you were standing in the Fire tower, looking toward the East down the trail, this latrine was in the woods, and was used by AIS troops, and ATB troops, and we used it too. I can assure you, there weren’t any magazines or newspapers to read while using it, when it was -40 or colder. LOL

I never saw anywhere, about another ski hill at Big Delta, now Ft. Greely.  There was a ski lodge, and ski hill directly across the highway from the Main Gate of the old post. There was a lodge, we have used for some parties, I believe there was a tow rope there, but not positive. I do know there was a ski hill there. Does anyone ever mention that?  [Tim K note: Hank Dube mentioned a ski jump here, but not a ski hill or rope tow.  Does anyone else have information about this area across from the Main Gate in the early 1950's?]

There was some kind of a structure, don’t recall what it was used for.  We had a couple of our Signal Corp parties there, and they were usually at night, and the ski hill was closed at the time. I will get back to you if and when I find out more.  The ski hill across from the main gate had a really nice building, there was a bar, and fire place in there too.

I left Delta in April of 1956, I know it was still there at that time.  On the tower ski hill, the jumps there were just little ones that we would build up with snow, I never was a good skier, and nearly killed my self on it, but then I didn’t have down hill skis, just cross country skis, that were not good for even that little two or three foot mound that we built up.

I don't recall the Sand Hill Lewis name. I do remember standing on what may have been a overlook, or a deck looking down the hill, there was a structure a little to the right side of a ski run. It was pretty tall, and I never related it to a ski jump, but now, talking to John, and thinking about that structure, I am sure, it had to be a ski jump, as I don't remember any cables or ropes that would have been a ski tow. I never did ski on that hill myself, I was never a good skier, and never had a set of skis with bindings, all I ever used were cross country skis that weren't the best for down hill skiing. Like I said, I crashed on the tower hill ski slope using the little jump that we created ourselves. I actually chipped  my tail bone, and that was the end of any jumping for me.

There definitely was a deck or some sort of observation platform. I was curious as to when they may have razed the building, or if they ever did, I remember it was  a pretty nice place to go to compare to the old huts that we lived in. I remember a fireplace on one of the walls also. There was a place South of the post, a few miles down the Richardson Hwy. About 1/3 of the way to Donnelly's Dome. It was on the East side of the hwy. Called the Malemute Saloon. The name of the owners i think was Donovan. They treated us soldiers like family. in the center of the room was a huge round fire place, at least 10ft. diameter and burned 8 ft. logs. There was a cone shaped hood that hung from the ceiling. In 54 one of us shot a Caribou, and the lady roasted it for us, and the entire Signal Corp, went there for the dinner. They opened the juke box, and let it play all night without any coins. I am sending a picture taken at that party, I am on the left, Roy Ludy in the center, and John Browy on the right. None of us had a lot of cash in those days, and a bottle of beer was 75 cents, and a mixed drink was $1.15. so money didnt go too far. But the Donovans, would charge us, $5 each, and opened the bar to us.

[Phil Jordan - 11 June 2007 email excerpt]

I was a member of the Arctic Indoctrination School from November 1954 to June of 1956. MOS Infantry Operations and Intelligence Specialist in the School HQ....basically a draftsman. I remember the ski jump and hill and trained on it and all the other locations such as Camp Terry, Donnelly's Dome and Black Rapids. I too do not remember the Sand Hill Lewis name.

[Tim Kelley - 03 July 2008]
Excerpt from: "United States Army Alaska Arctic Light Individual Training Manual"

Published in 2002 through 2004 by the United States Army Northern Warfare Training Center

HISTORY:

"Operations in cold and mountainous regions are not new to the US Army. Ever since the Revolutionary War, when the ill equipped and poorly trained Army of General Washington suffered in the cold at Valley Forge, some phase of almost every conflict in which this country has been engaged has been fought in mountains or cold, or both. However, specialized training of units for cold weather and mountain warfare was not seriously undertaken until the approach of World War II.

Training for extended operations in cold and mountainous areas was initiated in November 1941 with the activation of the 87th Mountain Infantry and the Mountain and Winter Warfare Board at Fort Lewis, Washington. Training and testing were conducted by these organizations at Mount Rainier, Washington throughout the winter of 1941 - 1942. These units were later to become the nucleus for the first cold weather and mountain training center to be established by the US Army.

During the period in which the 87th Mountain Infantry was undergoing training at Mount Rainier, plans were being made and a site selected for a center at which an entire division could be trained in the tactics and techniques of cold weather and mountain warfare. A site was selected in the mountains of Colorado, and in 1942, The Mountain Training Center, with members of the 87th Mountain Infantry as a cadre, commenced operations at Camp Hale. Thus was activated the first US Army training center designed specifically for cold weather and mountain training.

Training of the 10th Mountain Division for its future role of fighting in the mountains of Italy was the prime accomplishment of the Mountain Training Center during World War II. However, this was not the only training conducted by the Center. In addition to training many smaller units at Camp Hale, training detachments were sent to such locations as Camp McCoy, Wisconsin; Pine Camp, New York; and Elkins, West Virginia and Adak Island, Alaska to assist in the training of units in the unique requirements of mountain and cold weather operations.

At the end of World War II, the mission of the Mountain Training Center at Camp Hale was moved to Camp Carson, Colorado. Camp Carson was the only US Army Center for this type of training until 1948, when the decision was made to organize a school for arctic operations at Big Delta, Alaska later named Fort Greely.

In November 1948, the Army Arctic School was established at Big Delta with the primary mission of providing instruction in summer and winter operations under arctic and sub-arctic conditions. This training included arctic survival, mountaineering, skiing, and solutions to tactical, technical and logistical problems in cold regions. In July 1949, the Army Arctic School was redesignated the Army Arctic Indoctrination School, with no change in the mission.

For approximately eight years, training in mountain and cold weather operations were conducted simultaneously at Camp Carson, Colorado and Fort Greely, Alaska. However, in 1957 the total responsibility for cold weather and mountain training was transferred to Alaska. The Arctic Indoctrination School was redesignated the US Army Cold Weather and Mountain School and was given the mission of developing cold weather and mountain warfare doctrine, tactics and techniques, and training individuals in these subjects

Throughout the years as the Arctic School, Arctic Indoctrination School, and Cold Weather and Mountain School, training was conducted on an individual basis. Students from reserve component and active Army units throughout the continental United States and Alaska were graduated as instructors in cold weather and mountain operations. However, early in 1963, the Department of the Army concluded that the training in cold weather and mountain operations would be of more beneficial to units than individual training. Therefore, in April 1963, the US Army Cold Weather and Mountain School was redesignated the US Army Northern Warfare Training Center and given the mission of training individuals as well as units in the conduct of warfare in cold and mountainous regions. Today, The Northern Warfare Training Center is responsible for maintaining the US Army's state of the art in cold weather and mountain warfare. The Center provides training in these subjects to both active and reserve components and assists in the development of tactics and techniques for such operations."

 

 

 

Do you have further information, stories or pictures that you would like to contribute about this ski area?